No Hot Water
Follow these steps before calling a plumber — 60% of no-hot-water calls are simple fixes.
Check the pilot light
Look through the small window at the bottom of the tank. If the pilot flame is out, relight it using the instructions printed on your unit. Turn the thermostat knob to "Pilot," hold it down, press the igniter button, and hold for 30–60 seconds before releasing.
Check the thermocouple
If the pilot relights but won't stay lit after you release the knob, the thermocouple is likely worn out. It's a thin copper rod that senses the pilot flame. This is a $15–$30 DIY repair: shut off the gas, unscrew the old thermocouple, and thread in the new one.
Check the gas control valve (thermostat)
Make sure the dial isn't set to "Vacation" or an extremely low setting. Try turning it to 120°F (hot). If the unit clicks but the burner never ignites after a successful pilot light, the gas valve may be faulty — this requires a licensed plumber.
Check the gas supply
Verify the gas shutoff valve on the supply line to the water heater is open (parallel to the pipe = open, perpendicular = closed). If other gas appliances in your home also aren't working, contact your gas utility — there may be an outage or the meter may be off.
Do not attempt to relight the pilot. Leave the home, leave the door open, and call your gas utility from outside. Do not flip any light switches or use your phone inside.
Check the circuit breaker
Electric water heaters run on a dedicated 240V double-pole breaker. Open your electrical panel and look for a breaker labeled "Water Heater" that is tripped (positioned between ON and OFF). Flip it fully OFF then back to ON. Wait 30–60 minutes for the tank to reheat.
Press the reset button
Remove the upper access panel on the side of the tank. Behind the insulation is a red high-limit reset button. Press it firmly until you hear a click. Replace the panel and wait 30–45 minutes. If the button trips again immediately, a heating element or thermostat has failed.
Check the heating elements
Electric tanks have two heating elements (upper and lower). If the breaker is on and the reset button holds but water is only lukewarm — not cold — the lower element has likely failed. Testing requires a multimeter set to ohms. A reading of 0 or infinity means the element is bad.
Check the thermostat
If elements test fine, one of the two thermostats may be faulty. The upper thermostat controls the upper element and routes power to the lower thermostat when the upper zone is satisfied. Thermostats are typically $10–$20 parts — but if you're not comfortable working inside the panel, stop here and call us.
Flip the breaker OFF and use a non-contact voltage tester to confirm the terminals are dead before touching any wiring. 240V is lethal.
- Gas smell anywhere near the unit (gas leak — evacuate first)
- Pilot relights but trips every few hours (failing thermocouple or gas valve)
- Breaker trips repeatedly after reset (short circuit in element or wiring)
- Water heater is over 12 years old and suddenly stopped working
- Loud popping or rumbling from the tank (severe sediment — likely time to replace)
- Visible rust or corrosion on the tank body
Leaking Water Heater
Where the water comes from tells you exactly how serious it is. Location first, then action.
🚨 Do this before diagnosing — active leak emergency steps
- Turn off the cold water supply. Find the cold water inlet valve at the top of the tank. Turn it clockwise (or flip the lever) to shut off water flow to the heater.
- Shut off the energy source. Gas: turn the gas control valve to "Pilot" or "Off." Electric: flip the dedicated circuit breaker to OFF.
- Clean up standing water to prevent floor damage and mold. Then identify where the leak is coming from before calling us.
Diagnose by location
Top of the tank Often fixable
- Cold water inlet pipe connection loose
- Hot water outlet pipe connection loose
- Anode rod port fitting corroded
T&P valve (side of tank) Usually fixable
- T&P (temperature & pressure relief) valve weeping or dripping
- Discharge pipe has water on it
Bottom (drain valve area) Usually fixable
- Drain valve handle cracked or loose
- Valve seat corroded after years without use
Bottom (tank body) Replacement needed
- Water pooling directly under tank
- Rust-colored water or staining on floor
- Tank body visibly corroded or bulging
Even "minor" leaks cause floor rot, mold, and structural damage fast. A slow drip from a failing tank liner can become a flood in hours. Don't wait on this one. Emergency same-day service →
In humid weather or during the first use of a new unit, you may see moisture on the outside of the tank. Wipe it dry, check again in an hour. True leaks produce a puddle or wet spot that returns. Condensation doesn't.
Strange Noises
Rumbling, popping, or screeching? Here’s what each sound means and how to fix it.
What the noise tells you
Rumbling / Banging Sediment buildup
- Low-frequency rumbling as unit heats
- Popping or boiling sounds inside the tank
- Water takes longer to heat than before
Popping Mineral deposits
- Tinny, high-pitched popping from the tank
- Often most audible when hot water is running
Whining / Screeching Scale restriction
- High-pitched sound at the top of the tank
- Often when hot water first starts flowing
High-Pitched Whistling T&P valve
- Whistling or hissing from the T&P valve discharge pipe
- May be accompanied by dripping water
How to drain and flush a gas water heater
Turn off the gas
Rotate the gas control valve to the “Off” position. This stops the burner from running while you’re working on the plumbing.
Close the cold water inlet valve
Turn the valve at the top of the tank clockwise until it stops. Prevents fresh water from entering while you drain.
Open a hot water faucet in the house
Turn on a sink or shower in the house on hot. This breaks the vacuum and lets the tank drain properly.
Connect a garden hose to the drain valve
Attach a standard garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Run the hose outside to a floor drain, driveway, or lawn.
Open the drain valve
Turn the drain valve counter-clockwise. Water will begin flowing out — watch for the first few gallons to be dark brown if sediment is heavy.
Fill the tank and repeat if needed
Close the drain, reopen the cold inlet valve to refill the tank, then drain again. Two flushes removes most sediment. Three if water was very dark.
Close drain, reopen inlet, relight pilot
Disconnect the hose, close the drain valve, fully open the cold water inlet, and relight the pilot light (set gas to “On” → “Pilot” → hold and click igniter → hold 30 seconds). Turn thermostat to 120°F.
Sediment buildup that comes back within weeks, or noises from a tank older than 10 years, likely means the tank interior is heavily corroded. The fix at that point is replacement — see replacement options →
Pilot Light Won’t Stay Lit
The pilot flame is the most common failure point in gas water heaters. Here’s why it goes out and how to fix it.
What’s most likely causing it
Thermocouple failure — the #1 cause
The thermocouple is a small copper probe that sits in the pilot flame. When the flame heats it, the thermocouple sends a tiny electrical signal to the gas valve telling it to stay open. If the thermocouple is bent, dirty, or worn out, it doesn’t produce enough signal and the gas valve shuts off the pilot. Thermocouples cost $15–$30 and are the most common repair for a pilot that won’t stay lit. Turn off gas, unscrew the thermocouple from the gas valve, and install a replacement.
Dirty pilot orifice
Carbon and dust buildup can clog the tiny hole where gas exits for the pilot flame. The pilot lights but starves for gas and dies. Clean it with short bursts of compressed air — don’t poke it with a wire, which can damage the orifice. If air doesn’t clear it, the orifice may need replacement.
Gas supply issue
Check whether other gas appliances in your home are working — the furnace, stove, dryer. If nothing gas-powered works, your supply may be interrupted. Call your gas utility. Low gas pressure from the main can also cause a pilot to light but not stay lit.
Drafts blowing out the pilot
If the water heater is near an exterior door, in a basement with a drafty window, or in a utility room with an unsealed dryer vent — a strong cold draft can blow the small pilot flame out even when the thermocouple is fine. Check for air leaks around the unit. Seal gaps with foil-faced tape or install a draft hood if one is missing.
How to relight the pilot step by step
Turn the gas valve to OFF
Rotate the dial on the gas control valve fully clockwise to the OFF position. Wait 5 full minutes for any residual gas to dissipate.
Turn the gas valve to PILOT
Rotate the dial counter-clockwise to the PILOT position. You should feel slight resistance at this position.
Hold the pilot button down while pressing the igniter
Push and hold the pilot button (or knob) all the way in. Click the spark igniter button repeatedly until you see the pilot flame. On units without an igniter, hold a long lighter against the pilot tube while keeping the pilot button pressed.
Hold for 30 seconds after flame appears
Keep the pilot button held down for a full 30 seconds after you can see a steady blue flame at the pilot. This gives the thermocouple time to heat up and send the signal to the gas valve.
Release slowly and turn to ON
Slowly release the pilot button. If the flame stays lit, turn the dial to ON (or the temperature setting you want — 120°F is standard). The main burner should ignite within a few seconds.
Your thermocouple is almost certainly the problem. The fix is a replacement part ($15–$30) — not a call to a plumber. We can walk you through the replacement over the phone if you’re comfortable with basic hand tools.
Two or three failed attempts means the thermocouple has failed completely and the gas valve needs professional service. Do not keep trying — repeated gas cycling in a confined space is a safety concern. Call for same-day service →